I remember the first time I took note of the balaclava.

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It was a little over a year ago, at a crowded house party in deep Brooklyn. A lanky, twenty-something man wore a bright orange balaclava—despite the tropical microclimate created by all the packed, dancing bodies. He took nonchalant sips from a red Solo cup, mesmerizingly comfortable in his anonymity.

At that time, I viewed the moment as eccentric and kooky. Who wears a balaclava if they’re not in the arctic or planning a heist? Though balaclavas—also known as ski masks—have been popular for a long time in frigid locales such as Eastern and Northern Europe, they weren’t as common in a city like New York. But perhaps their relative out-of-placeness is what made them a great candidate for trend-forward New York style. Colorful, striped balaclavas like the ones sold by Marni and Ella Emhoff catches your eye, but also obscures the identity of the wearer. It places all your attention on the clothes, not the person.

But then balaclavas went from an intriguing rarity to a bubbling trend. When I walked my French bulldog around my former neighborhood of Bed-Stuy, foolhardy daredevils would zip by on motorcycles and four-wheelers and perform their tricks while wearing a balaclava.

Not too long after, during the first wave of the Omicron-variant in December of 2021, balaclavas served as multi-purpose facemasks. They also infiltrated rap culture seemingly overnight around this time, too. Drill rappers such as Tion Wayne and SL wore ski masks throughout their music videos and performances. Nicki Minaj even started selling some for $40 after she rapped about the trending accessory in a hard-edged collaboration with rapper Lil Baby.

Suddenly, it seemed as if a particular sect of hip hop culture—and its passionate, creative fans—had taken a special liking to balaclavas. As Brooklyn rapper Lola Brooke explains of the phenomenon, “In Brooklyn, we know what will be the biggest fashion statements before it takes off!”

These days, the balaclava is as likely to be spotted in deep Bushwick as it is in, say, a Paris Fashion Week show or a trendy bar in downtown Manhattan. They have been spotted on the runways of an ever-growing list of shows, spanning both menswear and womenswear: Marni, Loewe, Y-Project, Kenzo, Simone Rocha, and more. The latest Louis Vuitton menswear collection—created with Colm Dillan of KidSuper—featured a selection of leather and latex balaclavas paired with meeting-ready suits and overcoats. British designer Marine Serre upped the ante by selling masks that even cover the nose and mouth, leaving only the eyes exposed and creating something more primed for, say, Rihanna’s iconic “S&M” visual.

The popular instagram account @LeagueFits—which documents the powerful off-court style moments of NBA players—seems to feature at least one player wearing a balaclava while heading to or from a game with regular frequency. British rap artist Meekz hit the Brits Award red carpet in February of last year in an obfuscating balaclava paired with chunky black sunglasses; actor Evan Mock attended the 2022 Met Gala in a spike face mask that, while not technically one, exists in the balaclava family.

But this is a trend rooted very much so in the everyday. Model, designer, and creative Ella Emhoff  has turned her knitting passion into a blossoming business. She sells a variety of handmade balaclavas, along with other knits, to hungry shoppers on the regular. And a number of independent knitwear brands, such as Mask On NYC and, sell handmade ones, too. It’s as if we’ve all emerged from COVID-19 lockdowns clinging to the partial obscurity N95 face masks offered.

Below, seven balaclava-lovers from across New York talk about their enduring love for this season’s buzziest winter accessory.

Ari Serrano, designer, 25

You're a designer, tell me about that. What kind of stuff are you interested in making?
I am a sustainable upcyclist that loves transforming fashion through clothes! I love creating couture one-of-one pieces that nobody’s ever seen before!

Who are some of your favorite brands/designers in fashion right now?
Dapper Dan, KidSuper, and Utopia by Peder Cho are my top three designers at the moment!

What made you design this balaclava?
I love hiding my identity. I actually got contacted by a stylist to style someone for Lil Uzi’s “Just Wanna Rock” video and that’s when I made the “Sequence Devil Horn Balaclava,” because it reminded me of Uzi’s style and approach to fashion!

Tell me about the addition of the devil ears specifically?
I added the horns to the mask, because it adds a costume/cosplay edge to the piece making it more fun and playful which describes my personality 100 %.

And tell me about that wonderful gold and pink blazer? Is this a design of yours?
Yes, I actually cut and sewed this blazer last night, a few hours before I came to this shoot. I found these two blazers at a local thrift store and reworked them both into one couture piece!

Ella Emhoff, model, designer, creator, 23

When did you first fall in love with balaclavas?
When I first started making knitwear seriously I was only knitting balaclavas. I was a sophomore in the fine arts department at Parsons who had just figured out she hates oil painting. I needed to figure out a way to meld my love of knitwear and my studio course so I made a balaclava with no face holes. I think I made up some self-isolation concept for it that was really dumb, but it started this chain reaction that had me making balaclavas on balaclavas.

How long have you been making and selling knits? Is there a particularly strong demand for balaclavas?
I started really going ham with the knitwear over 2020 lockdown but because it was nearing summertime the balaclavas weren’t as popular as I hoped. Now they are a lot more popular—with my own products and with other knitters and designers.

How long does it usually take you to knit a balaclava?
I think in my quickest I could do it in an hour or so, but I was usually plying a couple yarns together so it went a bit quicker. It really depends on your level and urgency. I knit like my life depends on it and now I have horrible wrist issues. Don’t do what I do.

What is the reaction usually when you wear them? Have you gotten any particularly strong or memorable ones?
I feel like they are very common now. The overall shock of wearing a chic cap that makes you look bald has gone away. When I wear ones I have made I will get compliments on the bright pop colors. But other than that, nothing too crazy.

To anyone nervous about trying out balaclavas, what styling tips would you give?
Big Coat. You can never go wrong with a mildly chunky balaclava and an oversized coat or puffer or sweater. Sometimes I go crazy and wear a scarf with it so you are just wrapped in textiles.

Dusty, designer and model, 32

Where did you find your balaclava? I love the ears.
Thank you!! My friend Gabby made it. (Her Instagram is @___schwan.) A balaclava adds a little something to my looks. You can also roll it up into a beanie when you’re too hot. But, most importantly, it keeps me warm and cozy in this cold weather.

Does it spark interesting reactions from other people?
Yes, it does! If it didn’t I would go home and change. I’m serious. [Laughs.]

What excites you most in fashion right now?
That we’re witnessing a lot more diversity.

Do you think balaclavas are a new NYC winter staple or a passing trend?
It’s definitely a staple! When you feel the wind smack you in the face you’ll say thank god for your balaclava [laughs].

Lola Brooke, rapper, 29

Where did you find your matching ski mask and sweater that you wore for the photoshoot?
I found this set from Mr. Saturday and immediately knew it had to come home with me. The color stood out to me and I loved the oversized look/feel of the set.

When did you first fall in love with balaclavas?
Before I even got a chance to wear a ski mask, I knew I was a fan. The mystique of it is alluring and leaves people wanting to know more about the person behind it.

Are they popular in your neighborhood and your friends?
They’re popular in my city because, for one, it gets cold in New York, so it’s a dope layering piece. Masks are practical. Also, in Brooklyn we know what will be the biggest fashion statements before it takes off!

Have you seen people wearing ski masks at any unexpected places? Like at indoor parties and other places?
Of course. I’ve seen them everywhere, including by the pool [laughs].

Why do you think balaclavas/ski masks are so big in hip hop right now?
Ski masks have always been big in hip hop; it’s just revamped. That’s all.

Clara Perlmutter, content creator, 23

What attracts you to balaclava?
Being bald in the winter means that I am constantly trembling like a chihuahua, and I have found that hats are never enough to keep me warm. I used to have long hair, and it covered my head AND neck, so just on a practical level, balaclavas have been good for me because they cover both areas at once. They’re also so versatile. They feel like good character design pieces. Is she a vigilante superhero? Is she a ski enthusiast? Is she—God forbid—a bank robber? I want to keep my options open!

You really wear some colorful knitwear on your Instagram page! What’s behind your love of knitwear and what’s the power of the garments in your opinion?
I love functional, warm clothing, and I love layering. Knitwear checks both boxes. On top of that, fashion is a vehicle for self-expression for me, and I like to own a variety of pieces to suit my many moods. There are endless options for knits. They can be super chunky, or fully see-through. They can be subtle and minimal, or a maximalist statement. Wearing a sweater or a hat never has to get boring!

What are some of your favorite knitwear brands or pieces right now?
Ella Emhoff’s knitwear brand is incredible. I just bought this striped sweater from her with a teddy bear decal on it that I am in love with. I think Melke is doing really cool things. On the chunky knit front, I love Hope Macaulay. She sent me a bag and a sweater, both of which are incredibly dreamy and colorful. My boyfriend has a bunch of Gianni Versace knits from his grandpa, and those are darker and more toned down, but I wear them when I want to lean into a darker color palette. Other favorite brands for knits include Acne Studios, J.W. Anderson, Lirika Matoshi, and Stella McCartney.

Alexander Roth, model, 27

What attracted you to this Loewe heart-shaped balaclava?
The heart makes it a more approachable (and easily digestible) piece than some other balaclavas I’ve seen that might only leave your eyes uncovered, etc. I have a couple other balaclavas, with different designs, but this one’s special.

When and where do you wear it?
More than you would think. Especially with the NYC weather.

What are the pros of wearing a balaclava?
Pros include: hiding facial expressions, being cute, more-is-more, [and a] warm face.

And the cons?
Hat hair. That's it.

You recently returned from Paris Couture Week. I’m wondering if you saw a lot of balaclavas at the different fashion events you attended?
Paris was unusually cold this season. I saw a lot of creative ways for people to keep their heads warm. Overwhelmingly, balaclavas were the method of choice, both on and off the runway.

Austin Tyler, creative, 22

Where did you find this balaclava?
The balaclava is from the homie, Tobi, and his brand, @hyacyn_nyc.

What do you like about wearing a balaclava?
It brings life to my fit.

How would you describe your style in a few words?
Straight. From. The. Street.

Do you think balaclavas are a new NYC winter staple or a passing trend?  
Winter staple, for a fact.

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